Japan’s national sport, sumo is big, bold, exciting and steeped in rich history and tradition. It’s also completely unique to Japan and comes as somewhat of a surprise for a country and people associated with being polite and understated.
Sumo is practiced professionally only in Japan, and the best wrestlers are seen as national heroes. Wrestlers have six chances per year to prove their merit at any of the six honbasho, or Grand Sumo Tournaments. If you’re planning a visit to Japan, it’s well worth your time and money to attend any of the Grand Sumo Tournament exhibitions—it’s a distinctive cultural experience like no other.
Before you buy yourself a box at a sumo exhibition, here’s what you need to know about the unique sport of sumo.
The history of sumo tournaments in Japan
Tracing its origins to ancient times as a religious ritual to entertain Shinto deities, sumo today is synonymous with Japanese athletics. Sumo took its present form in the Edo period, between 1603 and 1867, when matches were held to raise money to build shrines for local deities and to fund infrastructure projects.
Originally, only the elites and the powerful could enjoy sumo, but the sport became more accessible during the Edo period, becoming popular among the masses. Events were held in Edo (now Tokyo), Kyoto and Osaka. Today’s tournaments, or honbasho, are much like the events of old. The round ring, customs and even traditional dress are a living example of Japanese history, delighting spectators at 6 special events held throughout the year.
The rules of sumo are simple. Two wrestlers meet in an elevated ring (dohyo), and the first one to exit the ring or touch the ground with any part of the body (aside from the soles of the feet) loses the match. Contests often last just a few seconds, but evenly matched competitors can wrestle for a minute or more. There are no weight classes or restrictions in sumo, so most wrestlers gain weight to become more competitive.
All sumo wrestlers are ranked in the banzuke, or sumo hierarchy. Ranking is updated after each tournament. The more wins a wrestler racks up, the higher they move in the hierarchy. Wrestlers move down as they lose matches. The top divisions are makuuchi and jūryō, with Yokozuna, or the grand champion, at the pinnacle. Yokozuna can never be demoted, but tradition dictates he should retire as his performance starts to weaken.
The six annual Honbasho
Since 1958, the Japan Sumo Association—the organizing body for professional sumo tournaments—has held six honbasho every year. Each event lasts for 15 days, and they feature the top-ranked wrestlers in the country. Wrestlers in the top two divisions—makuuchi and jūryō—wrestle once per day, while those in the lower divisions wrestle a total of 7 times during the event, once every alternate day.
Lower division matches start early, promptly at 8:30 am. Most spectators skip these matches and arrive when the top performers hit the ring in the afternoon, around 2:00 pm. That said, if you’re visiting Japan and want an authentic sumo experience, watching the earlier matches is a great way to take in the sumo experience without being packed to the gills inside the stadium.
2023 Grand Sumo Tournament Schedule
Want to experience the exciting sport of sumo for yourself? If you’re planning a visit to Japan, try to time your trip according to the 2023 Grand Sumo Tournament Schedule. There are matches throughout the year, every other month. The tournaments themselves are held in different prefectures.
Depending on when you plan to travel to Japan, here’s when and where you can attend a professional sumo match in 2023:
The January Tournament. Held at Kokugikan, beginning January 8, 2023, through January 22, 2023.
The March Tournament. Held at Edion Arena in Osaka, beginning March 12, 2023, through March 26, 2023.
The May Tournament. Held at Kokugikan, beginning May 14, 2023, through May 28, 2023.
The July Tournament. Held at Dolphins Arena, beginning July 9, 2023, through July 23, 2023.
The September Tournament. Held at Kokugikan, beginning September 10, 2023, through September 24, 2023.
The November Tournament. Held at Fukuoka Kokusai Center, beginning November 12, 2023, through November 26, 2023.
2024 Grand Sumo Tournament Schedule
Need a little more time to plan your trip? No problem—the Grand Sumo Tournament continues in 2024, with dates already announced. As mentioned, it’s an annual sporting event that draws incredible crowds—knowing the schedule a year in advance can be a great way to secure tickets early!
If your trip to Japan isn’t until 2024, here’s when and where to see professional Japanese sumo wrestlers throughout the year:
The January Tournament. Held at Kokugikan, beginning January 14, 2024, through January 28, 2024.
The March Tournament. Held at Edion Arena in Osaka, beginning March 10, 2024, through March 24, 2043.
The May Tournament. Held at Kokugikan, beginning May 12, 2024, through May 26, 2024.
The July Tournament. Held at Dolphins Arena, beginning July 14, 2024, through July 28, 2024.
The September Tournament. Held at Kokugikan, beginning September 8, 2024, through September 22, 2024.
The November Tournament. Held at Fukuoka Kokusai Center, beginning November 10, 2024, through November 24, 2024.
Tips for watching honbasho
Attending a honbasho is a once-in-a-lifetime event for many tourists visiting Japan. Yet, many are afraid to buy tickets to a sumo match because they’re not sure of the etiquette or how to conduct themselves. Don’t worry: it’s more inviting than it might appear to be! If you’ve ever attended a Western sporting exhibition, you’ll feel right at home at a honbasho.
If you do decide to watch a sumo event in person, make the most of your experience by following these simple tips:
Watch the early matches. As mentioned, those who want to get an unbiased view of sumo can (and should) watch the morning matches between novice wrestlers. Not only is it a great way to take in the sport without the hustle and bustle of a packed stadium; it’ll also give you context for the later-day matches, and just how disciplined top-ranked sumo wrestlers are.
Arrive early. If you’re only interest in the headliners, you’ll wait until the afternoon to see them. Most spectators arrive at the venue between 2 and 4 pm, before the top-ranking Sumo wrestlers have their matches. It’s best to arrive even earlier than that, at around 1:30 pm, so you can get settled into your seats. It also gives you a chance to take pictures of the venue before it’s packed with people.
Pick good seats. You need to purchase tickets for Grand Tournament matches well in advance, as tickets sell out quickly. Sumo tickets aren’t cheap, but if you want to make the most of your experience, buy the best seats you can afford. Box seats in the A, B and C divisions offer the perfect blend of a great view and a great price. You buy tickets for the entire box, which can seat up to four people.
Remove your shoes. Each “box” contains seat cushions that rest on the floor. Since this is traditional Japanese seating, be sure to remove your shoes before you sit. Most arenas will have storage for shoes before entering the seating area. Remember to bring socks if you’re not currently wearing them!
Come and go. If you’re making your sumo experience last all day, be aware that your ticket allows for re-entry. This is great for taking a break mid-day to eat or go back to your hotel to refreshen up. Security at most major sumo events is very casual, and you’ll just need to present your ticket to get back to your box.
Food is okay. Eating while watching sumo is okay, and there are vendors throughout each stadium selling all sorts of treats. As is the case anywhere in Japan, be mindful of those around you and always dispose of trash accordingly.
Photography is okay. If you want to snap a few pictures of the sumo match for your scrapbook of memories, that’s totally fine. Just keep a few simple rules in mind. First, turn off the flash. Second, make sure you’re not obstructing other patrons’ views of the match. Finally, stay out of the aisle when taking pictures.
For the most part, a sumo match will feel much like a Western sporting event to many visitors. So long as you’re acting with respect for the wrestlers, the event and those around you, you’ll fit right in at honbasho!
Immerse yourself in sumo culture
Sumo is distinctively Japanese and attending any Grand Sumo Tournament is a once-in-a-lifetime experience you’ll remember forever. Watching two massive wrestlers move with such grace and nimble quickness is something you need to see for yourself, and there’s no better venue than the biggest stage in Japan!
As you plan your trip to Japan, make it a point to book a box at one of the honbasho and experience all the excitement of this big, bold sport firsthand! Whether you watch the headline matches or make a day of it, you’re certain to create a one-of-a-kind memory that you’d be hard-pressed to replicate outside of Japan.
