Why Do Geisha Have White Faces?

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When you look at a Geisha today, then you will notice her beauty in an instant. With her white face, red lips and the dark shimada hairstyle, a geisha stands out from the crowd.

But where does the tradition of white face makeup on geisha come from? There are a couple of different reasons, including creating a more ghost-like appearance.

In this article, we’ll find out more about why a geisha wears beautiful white makeup, and we also explore other traditional makeup styles (see also ‘What Do Geisha Wear In Their Hair? – Japanese Hairstyles Explained!‘).

Experts believe that the traditional geisha style of makeup originated in China. Japanese geisha and maiko adopted this traditional makeup in the Heian Period (from 794 to 1185).

See The Geisha’s Face In Dim Light

In the past, homes were only lit with candlelight. This made it very difficult to recognize faces.

However, when a geisha painted her face white, her face would almost glow in the dark. The thick white face paint makes a geisha look almost like porcelain in badly lit houses.

The white makeup on a geisha’s face would show easier in the dim light. Her guests would be able to see the details of her face more clearly.

Hide The Geisha’s True Facial Expressions

Another reason that is often cited why geisha have white faces is because they need to hide their true facial expressions.

A geisha’s main role is to serve and entertain guests. This means, their own emotions shouldn’t be visible.

Create A Fragile Look

A third reason why geisha may be applying white makeup to their faces is because it is an ideal contrast to the lacquerware-like lips and their dark hair.

This creates a beautifully fragile look that resembles the appearance of a doll. This type of makeup was very popular in Japan in the past.

Traditional Japanese Makeup

Japan has a long tradition of makeup and face paint. The white makeup of geisha and kabuki create the illusion of a mask (see also ‘Who Created Kabuki?‘).

This makes historic Japanese makeup still so popular today with Japanese entertainers and stage performers.

In the past, geisha and actors would use cosmetics that are highly toxic, such as white lead for their white face paint.

However, geisha use more skin-friendly alternatives that have the same effect: giving the geisha a pale complexion, which is still loved by the Japanese.

Geisha Makeup

A geisha’s makeup isn’t as easy to apply as it looks. The application requires a lot of time and training.

In fact, it takes an experienced geisha 20 to 30 minutes to create the classic geisha makeup.

This includes the matte, white face with thick, black eyebrows, pink touches around the eyes and nose as well as bright red lips.

Geisha create the beautiful, pale face with the use of pastes and waxy oils.

While modern makeup trends often advise applying the makeup to the edges, geisha leave a small area around the hairline exposed to create a more dramatic effect.

The exact application of geisha makeup depends on the geisha’s age and her training status.

Maiko in the first year may not apply eyeliner or paint both their lips. However, they can apply more makeup as they progress through their training.

In addition, older geisha also wear a slightly different makeup which creates a more natural look.

Kabuki Makeup

Similar to a geisha, kabuki have a very distinctive look with traditional makeup. They also have a pale face with coloring around the eyes.

However, every kabuki mask is different for each actor. The individual elements of the kabuki makeup identifies the social status, gender and age of the kabuki.

Some of the most used colors for kabuki face makeup are blue, pink and red. They are painted on a white background with strong black accents.

The red in a kabuki mask can stand for passion or anger. On the other hand, a light blue color is a symbol of peace.

If a kabuki has pink painted on his face, then this means youth. A dark blue color expresses sadness, while black lines show fear.

Just like with the traditional geisha makeup, a good kapuki makeup can take hours to apply. That’s because the application uses a lot more color pigments and pastes.

How A Geisha Applies Her Makeup

While the makeup of a geisha looks very simple, it’s surprisingly hard to perfect. It takes a lot of time and special training.

Traditionally, geisha apply their makeup before dressing. This is important to avoid smearing the makeup on the kimono.

The white geisha makeup was originally made of rice powder or harmful white lead. However, modern geisha don’t use poisoned makeup anymore.

Apply The Wax Base

The shironuri makeup isn’t applied directly on the skin. Instead, a geisha would add a thick wax based, called abura, to her face and neck first.

The wax is warmed up with the hands and then gently pressed onto the skin. This makes the pores smooth.

Some people also believe that the wax prevents any sweating which is a great side effect as geisha can entertain for long hours.

Lay Down The Eyebrows

When it comes to historic Japanese makeup, it’s essential to create a smooth appearance. This also applies to the eyebrows.

Some geisha choose to shave their eyebrows off to apply red and black eyebrow makeup. Other women prefer to lay them down with a special paste known as tsubushi.

Apply The White Makeup

Now that the skin is prepared, the geisha can add a thick layer of the white paste. The paste is a mix of white powder and water.

The geisha uses a flat bamboo brush to apply the white makeup on the skin. Then, she pats the white with a sponge to create a smoother appearance.

Apply The Pink Paste

Once the white makeup is on, a geisha will add a subtle pink paste to highlight the contours, such as the eye and nose areas.

Paint The Back Neck Lines

Typically, geisha paint two lines in their back neck area with a special stencil. However, when a geisha entertains for a special occasion, she may also paint three lines.